OT: Reflections on visit to Arlington Cemetary
I visited Arlington Cemetary today. I purposefully avoided Memorial Day, wanting to avoid heavy crowds and distractions. I just wanted to share some reflections and encourage others to visit.
Quick logistical notes: I elected to walk most of the grounds and avoid the guided tours. They have an app but it doesn't work very well, so if you're looking for a family member I would recommend knowing which section they are in in advance.
Okay... now for my thoughts. I was absolutely overtaken and overwhelmed by how immense Arlington is. It's over 400,000 gravesites and over. 600 acres - and it feels it. I lucked out with timing and found the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier five minutes before the Changing of the Guard Ceremony. Their practiced skill and precision of movement was an honor to see. You can tell the Honor Guard are extremely well-practiced. It was amazing to see how Guards who were yards apart and performing different duties were clicking heels in-sync with one another - meaning that they time their back and forth pacing perfectly for their entire shift, which then as a result is in perfect sync with the next Guard who arrives to relieve the former hours later. Not to mention they're keeping pace and standing at attention all day in full dress uniform, gloves, and a cap. It was just so impressive and I felt like I didn't deserve to be there.
Once the ceremony concluded, I made my way through the Memorial Amphitheatre and to my Grandpa Joe's gravesite (Navy - World War II). I didn't know him beyond my childhood years but he was such a spirited and fun guy. He always showed me his blurry hula girl tattoo and it made me laugh. Grew his own habaneros and was the son of a West Virginia line of Scots-Irish coal miners. There was an inscription in the Memorial Amphitheater that says "when we assumed the soldier, we did not lay aside the citizen." Thinking about how my Grandpa Joe was just a tiny white headstone in a sea of brothers brought that sharply into perspective. I was surrounded by enough headstones that felt like uncountable bricks in a colossal tower. Every single one of those men and women had lives, ambitions, goals, joys, highs, lows, hardships, and victories. And many were killed before their time.
As I walked down Roosevelt alone, surrounded by birds and headstones, I felt like all the these voices were all telling me not to waste my precious time here, and not to take it for granted that I never had to make a choice as a boy to travel to another land and fight other boys because of the whims of a tyrant like Hitler, the strange politics that brought us to Vietnam, or peacekeeping/profiteering in the desert in Kuwait, Iraq etc.
Lastly, I know our country isn't perfect. Arlington Cemetary was the private plantation of a slave owner, and a Freedmen village before it was a military gravesite. It's a reminder that we aren't a country that solely acts out of egalitarian purpose, and we also have done great things in the service of mankind, built on the backs of lost futures, lost loves, and lost family members.
I highly recommend a visit. Just please don't talk. Please keep photos/video to a minimum. Please don't drag your feet/fumble around, especially at the ceremony. Leave kids under 10 at home. And bring a water bottle. Others at the site will thank you.
I'm going to go from memory so others please correct me. The soldiers that guard the tomb are far more determined and disciplined than most realize. They have to memorize a ridiculous amount of information, have perfect uniforms at all times, and take a vow to never drink or curse or the title can be stripped away.
Edit: I fact checked myself and the no drinking/cursing is apparently a false rumor. Still and amazing dedication
Yes. They have to memorize 35 pages of information upon which they are examined. ~300 graves' locations and what is written on each of them. They do 24 hours on, 24 hours off in rotating teams for 5 days followed by 4 days leave and so on. It takes them an average of 6 hours to prepare their uniforms for their rotation. For their initial uniform test, they have to arrange their insignia and medals to the 1/64" of tolerance with a maximum of 2 errors to pass. Their training/practice must be insane - they probably use medical school note cards. They're like a sommelier in terms of information they need to know.
Thanks for this post.
I know that there are a lot of Michigan Marching Band alumni on this site, so I'll take the opportunity to promote Taps Across America and the National Moment of Remembrance. Too late for this year, but dust off your horns for next year.
Thank you so much for this! I need to go back, was about 10 my only time there. I do distinctly remember the eternal flame at JFK's site. Great write up, thanks again.
Well said. My grandfather was Navy and served in WWII (deployed in the pacific). The last time I was in DC spent time walking through Arlington and it is hard to explain until you are there. Just a sea of white stones all of them with a different story. For the faults that we have as a country (which we do have, ignoring them does not help) the individuals laid to rest on this ground were following the orders in an attempt to protect the best hopes and ideals of America. Thanks for the post and the reminder.
My daughter was there a month ago on her 8th grade school trip with her class. Very proud of her because she was one of four winners to place a wreath at the Toumb of the Unknown Soldier Memorial. That is a memory she will be able to keep for a lifetime.
That's huge because it happened during the centennial, and they've stated that they won't likely allow another proximity event within our lifetime.
Have been there a couple times, and it’s amazing (not sure if that’s the right word). There is a lot to see and it is very humbling. I have family in the area so I will probably go back at some point. Have also, been fortunate enough to be in the pentagon a couple times and that is also a very interesting place.
I used to travel to Arlington for work frequently and went there several times. It touches you viscerally when you see the expanse of it and the sense of honor with the changing of the guard, etc.
When I had time, I would go there and take a walk from there to the Lincoln Memorial and sit for a while to take in the reflecting pool and mall. It definitely puts you in touch with our history and the costs that were paid to have what we have been given.
The Cemetery, plus the Marine Corp memorial, outside the cemetery grounds are highly recommended. When you combine that with the Pentagon 9/11 memorial, you will leave changed.
If you're a tourist, leaving kids at a hotel or with friends may not be doable. If it's a choice between going with a child or not going at all, please go. Even if you cannot spend hours there, you will soak up enough history to make it worth the visit. Also, I visited as an under-10 kid back in the 80s and it was a memorable experience. I was fortunate enough to have a dad who loved history and could explain everything.
Thanks for posting. I was there when I was 12 and again when I was about 40. Both times very impactful.
I have also had the opportunity to visit the American (WWI) Cemetery in Flanders, Belgium on a Memorial Day. Every year since 1923 local students and US Military representatives participate in this event.
The American Cemetary at Normandy is another amazing and beautifully maintained resting spot for over 9000 American soldiers, sailors and airmen.
All of three of these sites take your breath away.
Great post, I also remember the power of Arlington cemetery.
And yes, nobody is perfect, the Aztecs tortured children before ritualistically sacrificing them because they used their tears as an offering.
History is full of warts, the point is to learn from it, not repeat it by trying to erase it for year zero.
Much appreciated. Thank you.
We stuck it to RE Lee on that one.
My dad took the family the year after Kennedy was killed. At that time you could stand with your feet nearly on his name plate. A different time. I was 11 but still understood the gravity of it all. We watched the Changing of the Guard. It was absolutely great.
I recommend anyone going if they have the chance.
Thanks for the post OP - it is a very moving place.
Interesting note - The Lincoln Memorial is just across the river; and Lincoln's sculpted head looks away from Arlington. If you walk around the back of Lincoln you'll see what is purported to be a small image of Robert E Lee sculpted into Lincoln's hair. In this way Robert E Lee "looks" forever across the river at his former home which is now Arlington National Cemetary.
There were dozens of national cemeteries established as a result of the civil war, which left battlefields around the nation littered with the honored remains of those 'who gave their last full measure'. One of my favorites is the National Cemetery of Gettysburg. It has a beautiful setting and was the site where the most profound 263 words ever spoken on our soil were first heard and spoken by (for my money) the best President we've ever had.
I completely agree. Arlington, Gettysburg, and Valley Forge are three sites definitely worth visiting.
My best friend is buried there. GySgt Terry Ball died August 5th 2005. We were closer than brothers.
RIP Gunny. I'll save this and make a note to stop by and say hello, pay my respects.
Very nice piece, OP. Thanks.
I live about 15 miles from Arlington, so they have the same weather I do.
When we have an absolutely miserable inhumane day or night weather-wise, I often think to myself: "Right now there is an Honor Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier out in this weather, without fail."
It instills me with a sense of awe, respect, and a humbling comfort.
Amen
Arlington is the living epitome of solemn reverence.
The only place that even comes close is standing on Cemetary Ridge and looking over the field where Pickett's Charge took place in Gettysburg.
What really gets your attention is to experience Pickett's Charge from the other direction . . . go out into the field about a half mile and walk back in reverse up to Cemetary Ridge as if you were a Confederate soldier. There are no words.
Agreed. I walked it with my fiancee back in 2013. The bravery of those men, regardless of which side they fought on, was astonishing.
I didn't walk it, but I've stood on Seminary Ridge looking across to the Union lines. A mile of open ground, the only cover a slight dip in the terrain here and there. Shoulder to shoulder, line after line, battalion after battalion, all converging on that copse of trees behind the stone wall. And even before you line up, they know you're coming.
In 1863 I would have been on the Union side (I had an ancestor who was), but it's hard not to respect the courage and determination of those raggedy men who stepped out across that field. They knew what they were walking into, but they kept walking.
I was thinking the same thing. I read about it, etc. But, until I stood there on that ground and could visualize the battle as it took place, it never really hit me. It changes you.
The split rail fence, the low stone wall that forms the Bloody Angle, and the copse of trees where Lewis Armistead death marked the high water mark of Confederacy. It is a place haunted by death on both sides, but also the birth of a nation that threw off the shackles of slavery. Gettysburg is a special place.
While I've never been to Arlington, for solemn reverence, if you're ever near Charleston, SC I highly recommend a visit to Patriot's Point. On board the USS Yorktown Aircraft Carrier is a small humble room containing the Medal of Honor Museum. (Apparently, they're building a new one at Arlington to open next year.)
You talk about solemn reverence, walking through there reading the citations, no one talks.
It's a very humbling, moving experience.
My brother served on that version of the Yorktown (CV-10) during the Vietnam War.
The Changing of the Guard is absolutely amazing. The place as a whole is a somber but awesome place. It's a must-visit every time in DC.
If you ever have a chance to attend a funeral at Arlington National Cemetery, you should do it. Very humbling experience.
FYI - Joe Louis’s grave is just down the hill from JFK & RFK. Louis has a large impressive headstone.
Thank you for your post.
Last year, we were driving from the Champagne region of France to Paris via back roads - it was our final day in France before heading home. In the middle of nowhere, we drove by the Oise-Aisne American Cemetery, turned around, and spent about an hour there, talking to the retired Marine who manages the cemetery. There were no other visitors.
This is a WWI American cemetery containing the remains of about 6,000 soldiers and Marines who fought a German breakthrough that was headed toward Paris in the summer of 1918. What stuck me is how the site was so impeccably maintained and how knowledgeable the caretaker was about the history of that fight. It was an unexpected but truly memorable and moving day.
BTW - The American Battle Monument Commission administers, operates, and maintains 26 American military cemeteries and 32 federal memorials, monuments, and markers around the world.
You are bringing back memories for me. My late wife and I visited Reims on our honeymoon and explored around the area.
Two things brought tears to my eyes.... 1) that cemetery and 2) the bottles of champagne stacked in the caves of Taittinger.
I have been there twice, once to visit and once for a funeral. It is a special place. And quite a hike to the top. The silence of most people watching the guard change is pretty solemn. As a yankee I do get a tickle that it was Robert E Lee’s land that they just took after the war of northern aggression.
Driven by it a bunch, as a Virginia resident for the past 20 years.
It was his wife’s land. She actually won it back in the a lawsuit in the 1880’s. But for obvious reasons sold it back to the government.
Lee angers me much less than the Wigfalls, Davis’, Ruffins,and Barnwell Rhetts who drove the South into the war. Lee was against secession, but he felt he couldn’t take up arms against his “home”.
His father was a traitor too. He took up arms against his sovereign, George III. Treason ran in the family.
Either way very special place. Also still tickles me, even if it’’s the wife. Cause we all know wive’s had all the power both before and after the civil war.
Go to colleville sur mer at Normandy France. Another level
“Arlington Cemetary was the private plantation of a slave owner, and a Freedmen village before it was a military gravesite. ”
This line got me thinking about how our views of historical buildings depends upon the sensibilities of the time in which we live and how ultimately time will dull or erase the stain associated with them.
The Roman Colosseum was the site of slaves dying for people’s entertainment. Yet today it’s use is all but sanitized from people’s minds when they visit it.
Similarly, the White Tower in London was constructed by a conqueror to dominate his newly won realm. A conqueror who would use genocidal techniques to squash a rebellion across the midlands of England. The Tower would be the site of countless executions, unjust imprisonments, and perhaps the murder of two young princes.
I think it exceedingly important when visiting any historical site to remember above all the humans and their experiences at said site regardless of how distant it is from us. A person who lived 2000 years ago loved and was loved as much as someone who lived in 1840,1940 or today.
Americans tend to see themselves as exceptional—in good or evil. Truth is, we are rather ordinary. While not a shining city upon a hill we also aren’t Sodom and Gomorrah.
Is the US worth dying for? I’m not sure myself, but for those men who lay in those graves at Arlington it certainly was. It’s up to us to try to be worthy of such belief.
Well said brother, well said.
One of the most impactful places I have ever visited. Hallowed ground.
I, to, visited Oise-Aisn I honored to fold our flag in evening. I picked up about 50 pieces of metal from WWI. Two Medal of Honor winners are buried there. Also is the home of Sam Hill of the Where is the Sam Hill is . .
Good stories. Thanks.
I watched the color version of the D Day invasion on D day and a lot of those upper teens and lower 20s guys looked like us in college. Many did not make it that day and paid the ultimate sacrifice with their lives. It's sad thinking about it but they were brave and gave their lives to defend the free world.
Seeing reference to the Civil War reminded me that more American soldiers were died during it than those killed in all wars from the Revolutionary War through Korea.
I live in the Fredericksburg, VA area - a place literally dripping with Civil War history. It is a humbling experience to read the markers explaining what happened exactly where you're standing. Looking out over the fields of view you just have to wonder why. Why the fight. Why the tactics. Why this place. Why? I've visited many of the battlefields within a few hours drive of home, and they all punch you right in the gut. Every single one of them.
I've also had the distinct pleasure to visit the Rosecrans National Cemetery in San Diego and the National Cemetery of the Pacific on Oahu. They are impressive, solemn, dong punching, and impeccable in the detail of maintenance and reverence.
And yet, Arlington is on a different level. Perhaps its because we've seen Presidents buried there? Perhaps its because whenever we see a military funeral, it's usually occurring at Arlington? Perhaps its because the national focus is on Arlington over every other national cemetery? Whatever the reason, they are all more than 'worth your time' - they DESERVE your time.
Even if it's not Arlington, if you have the chance to visit a national cemetery, or a war memorial, or even just read a marker on the side of a road somewhere - do it. Whatever that marker is describing has already earned your time.
Fredericksburg has colonial history too. Very underrated place for history.
Virginia has more history per capital than any state in the Union. Just chock full of it.
"There is no greater love than to lay down your life for a friend" John 15:13
I would argue..... There is no greater love than to lay down your life for people you don't know..
love of country.
You walked among heros who didn't aspire to be heros... they selflessly gave all they had for a cause that too many people don't understand..
Proud to have served, it was truely an honor and one that I cherish every day.
Respect. Admiration. Appreciation. For every person who served our country - at any time. And, especially for those who made the ultimate sacrifice and gave their lives so we (future generations) could continue to realize freedom and the privileges it offers a citizenry.
I was just there with my son and his class on an end of the year field trip. Everything you say is spot-on. Thankfully, they were quite well behaved and I was very proud of how respectful they were able to be for hours walking around in the hot sun. I saw the changing of the guard once as a kid but haven't seen it since, so it was an honor to come as an adult when I could better understand the gravity of everything around me.
One crazy thing that happened when we were there: before the changing of the guard, the Guardsman entered the little canopy area off to the side for a moment. I'm unsure why or what he was doing exactly. But when he went to exit, the bayonet hit the top lip of the canopy and fell off the gun. He tried to catch it at first, but then stood upright, paused for a while, then turned around and went back inside. He must have messaged someone to come help. While he waited, he stood at attention inside the canopy and another Guardsman came out, picked up the bayonet, put it back on his gun for him, and left. The whole thing took maybe 10 minutes and it was pretty surreal to not have someone in front of the tomb for that time. The Guardsman then dipped a little lower this time to not lose the bayonet again, and continued his march back and forth. The changing of the guard happened not 5 minutes after this. Certainly gave our little middle school group some additional excitement to talk about afterwards.
Not sure how this wasn't mentioned already.
The Michigan Football Team visited Arlington National Cemetery barely a month ago during their spring trip out east. For those that might have missed it, here are some posts in the media and Facebook about it.
Also, here is a link to their Facebook video for the visit: https://fb.watch/l4SkpCpnLh/
And one post from Arlington Cemetery themselves:
https://www.arlingtoncemetery.mil/Blog/Post/13090/Michigan-Football-Team-Visits-ANC#
