Very OT: travel recs for Japan
We are going to Japan in May in celebration of our son finishing up his one-year Masters of Science in Information.
Also looking for any tips from our far-flung community here on MGoBlog. Spending 5 or 6 nights in Tokyo and three in Kyoto...with day trips to Kamakura from Tokyo and Nara/Osaka and Hiroshima/Mayajima from Kyoto.
Most interested in knowing what "must-sees" we should skip. For example, I'd advise anyone spending three or four days in Paris to skip Versailles.
Traveling with 1991 UM Grad and 2026 UM Grad (in prayer on this one) and 2023 (undergrad)/2024 (Masters) UM Grad.
As you’ll see from other post, I spent a year in Japan. Overall, one of my favorite places. I think you have a great line up of cities. If just focusing on things to skip, I honestly don’t think Tokyo is all that great beyond a couple days. It got bombed to shit during the war, so most of the city is brand new. The food is good there, but so is the food in most other Japanese cities.
On the other side of the coin, I would spend more time in Kyoto. Just an amazing city. Untouched by war damage.
I thought Nara was just OK. They have a lot of really annoying deer that will harass you for food.
Hiroshima is definitely a must see. Obviously got a lot of war damage, but the museum about it is really well put together. And visiting Miyajima Island is a must while you’re there.
I could go on…
Feel free to do so! The trip itinerary is still very flexible.
My wife and daughter need to leave a few days earlier than my son and I...so thus the imbalance between Kyoto and Tokyo. We need to get back to Tokyo so they can fly out...and then my son and I will remain in Tokyo and spend more time doing things that are more to his liking...probably mostly Akihabara.
So, it's four nights in Tokyo, three nights in Kyoto (but taking train back very late to Tokyo...so almost four full days in Kyoto), and then three nights in Tokyo...but only one for my wife and daughter.
I felt I was a little harsh on Tokyo. It’s a great place. If the timing is right, look up if they still do the fish market auction with breakfast sushi. It’s super touristy but I thought it was worth it.
In addition to some of the tips in my other post, I recommend if possible getting your Shinkansen tickets ahead of time so you can ensure you can all sit together.
It was mostly a cash society when it came to commerce, but I’ve heard the use of CCs are becoming more common. With that, carry cash. At the time, the only place I could get cash easily was at the 7-11 ATMs. They are everywhere, so it wasn’t a problem.
The toilets are amazing!
if you have any specific questions, let me know.
Tokyo is amazing but I'd agree Kyoto is the better place for sightseeing. Riding the bullet train between the two is worth it just to experience. Tokyo is a GREAT city tho, maybe not just for sightseeing but just lose yourself in a neighborhood for a day or a week.
Daytrips from Tokyo to Kamakura, the Tama area, and Yokohama are all worth it. If you have time go up to Naeba and see the snow monkeys - even if there's no snow. You can also see Matsumoto Castle up that way too, and relax in an onsen (hot spring) at a resort town.
But really you can't go wrong in Japan. Such a wonderful place to experience.
I was just in Tokyo a week ago and I can speak to this.
The only thing I needed cash for was a few of the markets at Asakusa (fortune, a few food items). All cabs were CC as well as most vending machines! I traded in $100 US dollars and used very little of it.
I didn’t do much souvenir shopping so I can’t speak to that.
Cabs were nearly twice as fast as the public transport and roughly $10-$20/ride.
Asakusa was cool! Crossing at Shibuya was also a must. Lots of great, adorable food in both locations.
Second Hiroshima and Miyajima Island. Favorite place in Japan.
Kyoto is beautiful as well, but Hiroshima is a great visit.
March 18th, 2024 at 10:33 AM ^
I really enjoyed Tokyo quite a bit but I think it's more the case that Kyoto is the place with more history and sight seeing and Tokyo is the sort of place with incredible restaurants and nightlife. Not that Kyoto is bad in this regard, but I went to some really incredible places each time I've gone to Tokyo.
I also second Miyajima Island, I sort of tacked it on when I went to Hiroshima and it was a really cool spot. The floating shrine in the morning and afternoon is really cool, and also going to the top of Mount Misen was an awesome view.
I also did really like Osaka which is really not that far from Kyoto.
If you make it to Hiroshima have lunch at one of the places in the Okonimiyaki Village. Very funky multi floor Okonimiyaki food hall. The Hiroshima style Okonimyaki is is excellent and it's a cool experience. Wouldn't bother waiting on the one place everyone lines up for.
Visited my brother in law and family last April as he was stationed there for the Navy. Besides the obvious stuff (Tokyo, Kyoto) I would highly rec kamakura which I wished I spent more time at (very chill and laid back).
Other recs (mostly obvious but recced anyway)
Reading: A Geek in Japan,
Beginners Guide…. By Pick Iyer
TV (and book) Tokyo Vice
Movies: Miyazaki films, Rashomon, Lost in Translation
In Tokyo: going to Sumo practice session (getting there is half if not more of the experience)
I spent about a year there for work about 10 years ago. Great experience and awesome food.
Japan is strangely not an English speaking friendly place. So I recommend finding a restaurant ahead of time and getting a reservation. Unfortunately, a lot of places don’t take reservations. If you are going to walk in to a place, most of the time that will work, but make sure the menu has pictures (or in some rare cases, in English) so you can order properly even if there is a language barrier.
Kyoto is such a magical place, but there is an area where no foreign white people are allowed. I forgot the name of the area, but look it up and stay away.
If you are really into beef, you have to stop in the Gifu prefecture and try the Hida beef. IMO it’s better than Kobe/waygu beef.
Japan is one of the cleanest and safest places I’ve been. No doubt you’ll enjoy it.
Having been there a week ago, I can also attest to this. (Surprisingly few English speakers) Everyone was very willing to talk over google translate and especially kind of you knew a few phrases.
Agreed on lack of English speaking being a surprise. Not even a basic proficiency at places like the train station in Shinjuku where you'd expect some guidance on directions.
March 17th, 2024 at 10:12 PM ^
masugu ni itte
Supposedly it improved a lot after the olympics, more signs in english, but yeah, the average Japanese person can't speak a lick of english despite them all studying english for years in school.
I'm trying to learn Japanese now and my god you have to rewire your brain to understand the three different alphabets they use.
March 18th, 2024 at 10:35 AM ^
I feel like I've never had an issue getting by despite my lack of speaking Japanese and I think I was surprised by how many people I encountered did speak at least some English.
But on reservations they can be very difficult to make even for places that are not super fancy unless you are staying at a hotel with a concierge who can make them for you.
I was stationed there for two years, and honestly just pick a train stop and there will be good food nearby. If you want look for a ramen shop or sushi stop anywhere, or yakiniku or like seriously anything. You can eat well at the conbinis!
Have fun. Ride the bullet train. Use the toilets. And eat anything. You'll be happy and satisfied. Gambate!
March 18th, 2024 at 10:40 AM ^
The unfortunate thing about the bullet train is they just raised the prices on the 7 day and 14 day passes. They hadn't gone up since 1989 so it's a big jump, but it doesn't necessarily make sense to get the pass anymore unless you are planning on riding the train quite a bit. Whereas before even the round trip from Tokyo to Kyoto would basically pay for itself.
I was just in Tokyo for five days. Hard to go wrong on food, unless you're vegetarian. Try things you haven't before - there's way more kinds of Japanese food than I knew. The most fun thing we did for a sports fan was to see a Sumo wrestling practice. It's a bit pricy to get the guide that gets you in, but was really cool to watch. Also enjoyed hanging out at the Shinjuku Golden Gai area of bars (separate area from where the sumo stuff is)
Be careful of the Golden Gai area though. Some places are nice and friendly, but some will rip you off; and that's IF they let you in (there are quite a few places, especially the smaller ones, that won't let you in if you don't speak Japanese).
7-11
Yep. The only place I could get cash was at the ATMs in the 7-11s
and they are everywhere.
It’s the same in Taiwan. 7-11s double as post offices or something. I don’t remember the details, but yeah, just about every block has a 7-11.
Same here. 7-11s are great in Japan. Good sandwiches too.
And over 250 Big Boy restaurants!!!
Dinner at KFC--a Christmas tradition.
March 18th, 2024 at 10:37 AM ^
I'm always blown away by how good the food at the 7-11 is and how well priced it is (and the yen is currently way down against the dollar so that goes even further).
7-11 is also just a good choice for a quick and easy breakfast most days.
This you tube series has some great tips for traveling on in Japan on a budget.
Thanks all! Appreciate the advice.
Try the natto, a favorite food of adventurous English pilots.
No one seems to recognize the Shogun drops.
Kind of surprising.
March 17th, 2024 at 10:26 PM ^
I even got negged for mine.
March 17th, 2024 at 11:04 PM ^
Love the book and the series. Not a pilot (or English) but I did find myself enjoying natto...eventually.
I remember all the housewives who had the paperback in the 70's.
Yeah, natto smells like dirty socks, but it's an acquired taste that you get used to. (I eat it several times a week over rice, usually with raw egg - irradiated, so they are considered safe in Japan).
There's a Japanese idiom about having to try a food three times to know whether you really like it or not, and that was certainly true for many people and natto,
March 18th, 2024 at 10:42 AM ^
I definitely did not find myself enjoying natto.
I spent almost a year in Japan for work. Folks here have already given some good advice.
1. Take the train from the airport and do not take a taxi into Tokyo. The train is about $5 and a taxi is $250.
2. I would minimize time spent in Tokyo and focus on other cities.
3. Take the Shinkansen train to Kyoto from Tokyo.
4. I highly recommend going to and staying in an Onsen-Ryokan, a Japanese-style hotel with hot thermal baths. If you only do one thing do this. This is always a super-cultural experience.
5. Also, I recommend highly the southern island Kyushu if you can.
6. The ramen is amazing in Japan and I found the best tiny restaurant in the basement of the Shinjuku train station. At first glance it looks like a cheap little dive. You pay for food and drink at station that spits out paper receipts. You give these to the cook behind the bar. Amazing!
You will have fun!
March 18th, 2024 at 12:40 AM ^
The Shinkansen were very convenient. Nagano to Tokyo in 100 minutes.
If going from Kyoto to Tokyo, get a seat on the left side, and right side from Tokyo to Kyoto. Seat D or E (either way) is the window seat. Apparently a great view of Fuji for a few minutes.
We stayed at a Ryokan up in the mountains. The hot springs baths are quite nice. We splurged and had a room with one on the balcony so we could do that together. Really great at midnight when it's very cold out.
I love Japan, and have been there three times already. Honestly, I don’t think reservations are absolutely needed, but you could pick one or two spots for reservations for a high end omakase meal at some point. But Google is a good place to figure out where the good food is. Try Michelin bib Gormand.
Do not make reservations the first few nights as the time change is tough! Try the Timeshifter app to get a head start on jet lag.
With the Japan rail pass or jrpass you can go anywhere you need. Tokyo is amazing, and so is Kyoto, and Osaka. It just takes a little longer to get places than you think in the cities due to the size (Tokyo) or lack or direct public transportation (Kyoto).
7-11 is amazing but you really want to try the small little restaurants for grilled meats and vegetables, sushi (cheap conveyer belt and others), ramen, etc. The alcohol is amazing too and if you are into malt whisky, there is a lot to explore.
skip the new fish market in Tokyo, the old outer fish market had what you need in terms of lining up for excellent sushi for breakfast at 10am!
my daughter did her last year at western as an exchange student in kyoto. if you’d asked me to make a list of places i’d like to go, japan wouldn’t have made the top 50. but go i did, for almost 3 weeks, and it was the greatest vacation i ever had. i was on my own during the days, and met her after classes in the mid-afternoon to do stuff.
SO, bullets:
- food - the nishiki market was one stall after another of hyper-local food, all delicious and quite cheap. i’d also highly recommend okonomiyaki, which is kind of an osaka thing, but is incredible. and i would KILL for a conveyor-belt sushi restaurant place right now.
- sightseeing - do:
- the bamboo forest
- fushimi inari shrine
- kinkaku-ji temple (the golden temple)
- lastly - after a week in kyoto, i took off for 4 days at monastery in koyasan…i’m not the meditative type, but the rustic lodging, the food and the local history (it was essentially the birthplace of japanese buddhism, IIRC), FAR from the city, were incredible.
i’m incredibly envious. i’d go back in a heartbeat.
Ueno Park in Tokyo is incredible and you can spend a whole day there. It's huge and offers an escape from the crowded city. You can have a good time just strolling around checking out the nature in peace, but it also has a ton of great museums and galleries. The natural history museum is Smithsonian-level or better. And if you're looking for a reasonably-priced, authentic course meal looking out at the park, I recommend Inshotei. Didn't need a reservation and English-accommodating.
Also check out Teamlabs! Interactive art thing, you can't have a bad time. You need to book tickets online in advance.
Enjoy your travels, I'm jealous!
If you are in Kyoto, you have to go to Fire Ramen Kyoto - Menbaka. I went there with my family last summer and we loved it. You may have to wait a while to get in depending on when you go but it's worth it. Very good food and the fire show is great and a lot of fun. One of the highlights of our trip there. If you have the time, I also highly recommend taking the train to Nara and going to see the tame deer at Nara Park.
My wife and I plan an extended trip to Japan in the spring of 2025; very interesting info here, domo!
Say hi to Kaneda for me. Be sure to yell it!
Getting one week rail pass or two?
I'd recommend going further if you have time such as Hiroshima and Kyushu, including Nagasaki (probably the most beautiful city in Japan).
Moderately priced restaurants? There are a lot. And chains that are cheap, but still pretty good.
Most restaurants (in Tokyo at least) have limited lunch menus that are really inexpensive ($5-$20), and remember NO tipping, ever.
Depending on where and when you are visiting, get a bento (boxed meal) and sit outside. Went to a baseball game and horse race track with family members last season. Prices are normal - no gouging.
As hard as it is to find a really good meal most towns in the world, in Tokyo and many cities in Japan it's really hard to find a bad one.
Wanted to second Nagasaki! Absolutely wonderful city, felt like the best parts of Kobe and Yokohama together to me. Also there was a neat little active volcano not too far away - Aso-san, and also Kumamoto is just a day trip away, which is where the events that inspired The Last Samurai occurred (but no joke, the samurai were the bad guys)
Go to Milton's Bar in Kyoto and thank me later