OT: Talking Cars Tuesday - your questions!
Based on our advice thread from last week we've got lots of knowledgeable car folks on the board here. Do you have car-related questions? These could be things from "What's a car" to "We're having another kid and thinking of a bigger vehicle, anyone on the board drive X/Y/ or Z?" or things like "What kind of mileage do drivers of X get in the real world?" or "Do i need to use premium?"
I can't promise you'll get good answers, I can't promise the answers will be funny, but maybe we'll get a few of both?
By better off I mean that I like the control that comes with driving stick in bad weather. My first two cars were Jeeps with no ABS, no traction control, etc. I had to learn how to drive without nannies. There was mechanical 4WD or RWD, and that helped me learn too. Since I've had 2 FWD stick cars and they do just fine in the snow. AGain, I like the control.
In terms of AWD vs. Snow tires... I hate consumer reports when it comes to cars. However even they say don't get AWD unless you live in colorado or somewhere similar.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/09/do-you-really-need-awd-in-the-snow/index.htm
Also:
http://jalopnik.com/lets-settle-the-winter-tires-vs-all-wheel-drive-debat-1462180324
http://www.caranddriver.com/columns/snow-tires-still-beat-four-wheel-drive
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and they love it. A Forrester I believe. They like the extra room for when they haul grandkids around. One issue, besides the aforementioned gasket, is that is you prefer to do maintenance on your vehicles yourself (spark plugs/brake pads/rotors/bearings etc.) Subaru's can be a huge pain in the arse from what I have heard.
I just got my 30,000 mile service done on my Volvo (C30) and it was still under warranty. My next oil change is due at 40,000 miles and I was asking the guy how much the 40,000 mile service was and he stated $550.00. It looks like they just inspect various parts of the car and change break fluid. My question is this... is it necessary to do this or am I ok just getting the oil changed?
If there's nothing special at 40,000 you can just get the oil changed. If there are special things, you can call various places and see what it will run you.
If you're happy with the service you get at the dealer you could always call them and say "Garage X is offering to do the 40K for $200." and see what they say.
You can check the list of things they are doing and then look that list of things up online to determine if it's necessary and then you can push on an option or two if you want.
My personal philsophy is, go ahead and let them do the full check unless you are a really good mechanic and can do most of the work yourself. My philosophy comes down to most maintenance schedules are a little aggressive in terms of whats required, but there's a reason behind them and you're likely saving on the labor by getting everything done at once.
My wife and I will be in the market for a new truck at the beginning of the new year. We have a travel trailer that we will be pulling it with. We are looking at a Ram 1500 Outdoorsman because of the larger rear end and towing capacity. I am also considering a Ford F-150 with a larger rear end. We are generally Mopar people, but I wanted to get other's opinion on the F-150. We are looking to lease, and going to a 2500/250 is not an option for lease.
Ford sells a ton of 'em.
Since you've got a good baseline (weight of your trailer, rating of your current truck) you should be able to cross shop pretty easily. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to drive the Big 3 and see what you like the best. Call dealers and see if they'll let you pull a trailer on the test drive. If they don't, maybe you could still hook it up, or back up to it, etc. get some experience on that end.
Thanks for the advice!
New trucks get expensive quickly. I mention what you drive today because the Big Engine will look fun... but may be more truck than you need. Which, like 90% of truck buyers get more than they need... but whatever. Just think about how much towing capacity you need and you could save some $$ up front and in gas expenses.
I drive a BigHorn and love it. The crew cab gives a TON of room for kids/dogs/storage. They tow like a beast and that 5.7L Hemi comes off the lot at 400 hp. Yes, I am a Mopar guy too but I have owned a few Ram pickups and love them. My brother drives only Ford.
I'll take my truck over his any day and twice on Sunday.
Hey, has anybody had experience with Medium Heavy rear Old Man Emu 2-1/2" lift springs on a 4 door Jeep JK? I went with the recommended light springs, but the back end feels wallowy with the hard top on - especially with teenage sons in the back seat. ARB USA says the ride may be a little harsh with the Medium Heavy springs.
I do not have a heavy rear bumper and spare tire mount.
Can someone who has spent time driving both manual and electric cars compare and contrast the enjoyment you get from driving them?
do you enjoy going on a fast, smooth ride, or prefer saving the environment?
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I'd never drive a tesla. Why would I want a coal powered car?*
Just remember - there is no such thing as a "Zero" emission car. They're just elsewhere emission. (That said, if you have clean electricity generation where you charge, great for you).
*- Just a quote. Here in chicago we have nuclear power. Also, I don't drive a tesla.
All I said was that energy generation is important. If I had an electric car it'd be Nuclear Powered (!!).
Okay, I stand corrected... once in a generation Japan comes up with something. Since I have been alive, they've pioneered the old NSX and the Prius.
I never said their engineering was poor... I said they take what is already innovated and make it better.
no, you're correct. They're converging because of pedestrian impact regulations. We can't have the gloriously deisgned cars of the 50s-70s anymore because getting hit by one will kill you dead. Now getting hit by a car is a much more survivable event for a squishy human, but at the cost of diverse design.
again, it's all regulated by ped-pro. In the past 10 years safety regs have made huge leap worldwide
Blame aerodynamics and fuel efficiency. But they're all using the same shape.
How do I build a car from the ground up?
If you're a car company? Lots of info.
If you're just you, looking for a project? Buy a kit car. http://jalopnik.com/the-ten-most-outrageous-kit-cars-you-can-get-right-now-1705300363
You'll get all the important bits (frame/hard points/etc) but have to put it together yourself and source your own powertrain.
We're looking for a safe family SUV that will last us for the next 10-15 years. It has to be a 7 seater. The wife is really pulling for a Highlander or Pilot. I'm interested in the Acadia. We haven't started test driving yet and are just in the beginning phase, i.e, arguing over price. I'm looking for something reliable that will last. Comfort and driveability are second on the list. We're looking for a slightly used 2013 or newer with under 40k miles. What do you think is our best option? Perhaps one not listed? Are there any major issues with these models?
I understand. For most of my life my parents have had ugly ass minivans. Aerostars and Montanas. The reasoning is very clear. They're the better option in almost every way. I hate the look of them, but once you're inside it's hard to argue against them. That being said the wife and I are both in seach of a M.A.M. Perhaps we're fools.
Not fools at all(the anti-minivan impulse runs strong as I think for a lot of people it symbolizes a loss of youth, coolness, etc. and with the car you drive I happen to think it's a legitimate concern), but I agree with JeepinBen that you really should give a minivan a look and I'll throw ina plug for the Odyssey. To get the same amount of passenger room and cargo space you are generally looking at a fairly obnoxiously sized SUV, so a minivan tends to be a fairly cost-effective option to get done what you need to, and the look of a mini-van anymore can be fairly sleek.
To be perfectly honest you're gonna have a pretty good experience with any new car today that isn't made by a european luxury company. Those are great but require religious maintainence that will get expensive after the warranty expires 5 years in.
Get the one that is offering the best deal that you like the look of. You really can't go wrong
...except for maybe with a chrysler...
properly maintain your vehicle, it is going to last. The Big 3 auto companies have made leaps and bouds over the last 15 years as far as making quality products (except for the transmissions they put in those Chrysler cars . . . those things suck). I typically buy 1-2 year old cars with <20,000 miles and have a good service record because it is just like new and saves you thousands of dollars.
My other brother has an Acadia with the 3rd row seat for his 4 kids and loves that thing . . .
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If I take care to maintain a new GTI according to the letter ofthe manual, will it be break down more than say a honda/ toyota? I understand routine maintenance costs would be more, but I'm talking about unscheduled repairs?
My personal opinion not based on empirical evidence but personal experience owning an A3 (similar/crossover parts), is no, the car is solid engine wise.
However, keeping it that way is a lot more preventatively intensive than a typical Honda (using my GF's V6 Accord as a comparison). There's a lot more in the book to do for my car versus her car.
The maddening thing about the A3 is the oil it uses; hard to find... and the where the VW group goes cheap on things! For example, the tab on the armrest storage broke and you have to replace the whole armrest to fix. The cheapest I found the part online is $130... for a $0.99 piece of plastic. This is a known issue too!
I get it. Most of the parts on my Honda are pretty easy to fix and cheap online.
What oil does the A3 use? Is the issue the brand or weight? I generally use Mobile1 synthetic, but is a specific brand "strongly suggested" for the A3?
They have the 0W-40 for about the same price as Walmart does for the 0W-30 that I buy for my Honda.
Thanks... I guess it never dawned on me to look online for motor oil.