OT: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson about to finish the first free ascent of Dawn Wall, Live Stream

Submitted by reshp1 on

You've probably heard about these two the last couple weeks. They are attempting to be the first team to free climb (climbing without using gear to ascend past sections) the Dawn Wall on El Cap in Yosemitie. For reference the hardest single pitch ever climbed is 5.15c. The Dawn Wall route has six pitches rated in the 5.14 range, with two rated 5.14d, just 3 steps below the hardest single pitch anyone has ever done.

You can watch the last push here and history in the making.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/watch-the-final-push-of-the-dawn-w…

They just finished up pitch 30 and swung leads and Tommy Caldwell is starting up pitch 31. (EDIT: Actually they're starting up the final pitch!!). There are 32 pitches total.

MGoBoard
Other

andrewG

January 14th, 2015 at 8:03 PM ^

it's so strange to see this story pop up on non-climbing websites. goes to show what an amazing accomplishment this is. so what's the line on when this gets repeated? at least a decade, right??

Joined: 10/20/2010

MGoPoints: 5257

reshp1

January 14th, 2015 at 8:28 PM ^

Hard to say. The thing is, you have to be absolutely obsessed with the project. Caldwell has worked on this close to a decade amd Jorgeson for 3. There are certainly other climbers strong enough to do it, but they're usually focused on their own projects and I don't see them basically putting everything else on hold for long enough to learn all the details about the climb that you need to be successful.

Joined: 10/31/2011

MGoPoints: 34177

andrewG

January 14th, 2015 at 8:38 PM ^

I doubt an established professional would devote the time to repeating this route because like you said, the amount of dedication it takes is absurd. And just look at the Nose, it's had 5 ascents in the ~25 years since it was established free. Crux pitches are like 13d and 14a on that right? Dawn Wall has 9 or 10 pitches that hard. That's just crazy to think about. You'd have to free the Nose just as part of your training regime...

Joined: 10/20/2010

MGoPoints: 5257

andrewG

January 14th, 2015 at 8:41 PM ^

I kinda doubt it. Aren't the Piolet d'Ors more for alpinism/adventure climbing? There was nothing fast or light about this ascent, though more than enough badassery.

I think Caldwell probably stands a better chance of getting it for his Patagonia traverse with Honnold.

Joined: 10/20/2010

MGoPoints: 5257

reshp1

January 14th, 2015 at 10:11 PM ^

The nomenclature is weird. Climbing first started with pulling oneself up on gear at least part of the way. Today that's regarded as "aid climbing" but back in the day it was just normal climbing. To distinguish ascents that were done with out weighting or pulling on gear, the term "free climb" was coined. Climbing without a rope is known as "free soloing."

Joined: 10/31/2011

MGoPoints: 34177

UMfan21

January 14th, 2015 at 9:18 PM ^

I mean, I guess it's impressive.  But I climb my stairs several times a day successfully navigating around matchbox cars, legos and Thomas the tank engine.  Nobody has televised me yet.

Joined: 09/28/2009

MGoPoints: 51224

reshp1

January 15th, 2015 at 12:51 AM ^

13b free solo is ridiculous, that's what makes Honnold famous. 13b in general isn't that hard at all, relatively speaking, for elite climbers. You can find someone in most any gym or crag in the country that can climb that. You wouldn't even get a sniff at sponsorship at that level (male anyway). Honnold is obviously a every good climber to be confident in tackling 13s free solo, but even if you consider his max red point grade 14b/c, he still wouldn't be in the elite class. What sets him apart isn't his maximum grade, its how far he's willing to push free soloing.

Joined: 10/31/2011

MGoPoints: 34177

andrewG

January 15th, 2015 at 12:17 PM ^

you're comparing apples and oranges dude. while i have a huge amount of respect for honnold, i hate that there's this notion that free-soloing is the ultimate form of climbing now, due mostly to him. you don't need to risk dying to make a notable climb.

Joined: 10/20/2010

MGoPoints: 5257