OT - Moving to San Francisco

Submitted by JWolve on

I'm hoping to solicit a little MGoHelp. I'm moving to San Francisco from Los Angeles in a few weeks - mostly so I can troll both Oakland and the 49ers, and secondarily for a new job. 

I'm looking for an apartment, and wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I know this is near-impossilbe, but trying to find something within a reasonable price range ($1,500-$2,300), and open to roommates. I'm open to living in Oakland as long as it's not too hard to get to a BART.

Any advice on neighborhoods or where to look would be appreciated! Thanks. 

 

 

Badkitty

June 20th, 2015 at 4:43 AM ^

I forgot the rest of the post. As soon as I moved out, the landlord doubled the rent. That was after just 5 years of my living there. I found out because I had to go back because I left something in the apartment and spoke to the new tenants. It was just me living in probably what was a 700-800 sq ft apartment. I can't imagine having to share with another roommate who isn't a significant other.



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SMJenkins3

June 19th, 2015 at 6:05 PM ^

Neighborhoods in SF and Oakland are very different.  So what are you looking for?  Are you young? Do you want to live right by restaurants/bars?  Do you want to live with younger people or a calmer neighborhood?  What do you value more- safety/space/the scene/cost.

 

Sorry, tough to give suggestions without really knowing someone (or knowing more about them).  

SMJenkins3

June 19th, 2015 at 6:21 PM ^

1) Look on craigslist.  It really is the palce to look for places out here.  There is also the app padhopper it is semi-useful.

2) Areas in SF:  You are going to need to do the roommate thing at that price.

1) Mission- it still has some rough parts so you should definatley check out the place/area to make sure you are comfortable.  It’s probably the best mixture of cheaper price, younger people, convenient location, lots of bars/restaurants and safe(-ish).  You could put lower Haight in this category as well.

2) The Marina/Cow Hollow- basically post-college aged kids.  Tons of bars/restaurants.  Very safe.  Convenient to public transport, but not freeways.  Very expensive.  Laurel Heights would be another similar neighborhood.  As would Noe Valley (just further out) and North Beach.  Put Russian Hill and Nob Hill as similar neighborhoods.

3) Pan Handle- this is where I lived when I first moved to SF.  A pretty good situation for finding roommates.  Not bad for safety/commute.  Not much night life that close. 

4) Cole Valley- probably in the same vein as The Marina, but a little less nightlife right there, a little further out and a little cheaper.

5) Patrero Hill- can find some good places here.  Again not as much nightlife right there, and a little longer commute, but cheaper. 

 

Stuff out by the Ocean- (say past 30th Ave) is much cheaper.  There isn’t a ton of nightlife out there and the commute is long.  And it is COLD.  (not snow cold, but tons and tons of fog).

 

Sorry this is pretty rambling….

Tyrone Biggums

June 19th, 2015 at 7:00 PM ^

What Jenkins said...

I lived in the bay on and off for 10 years. Most recently in 2013. I'd look in the Lake Merrit area of Oakland it has a plethora of rental space is walkable and safe and pretty centrally located for the East Bay. Lots of restaurants, bars, shopping, etc.

When I left I was renting a 1 bedroom that was around 1100sq ft for 1650 a month. A block off of Grand avenue.

Good Luck in your search! The Bay area is an awesome place to live.

Edit: The mission is safe unless you like to pick fights with hipsters.

JWolve

June 19th, 2015 at 6:22 PM ^

I'm 30, past my crazy going out days, but would love to be an area with a handful of restaurants/coffee shops. Safety - I don't want to worry about my place getting broken into or getting mugged on the street. I don't need that much space, but would rather have a 2br with a roommate than a small studio. 

I know it's tough to suggest...but I appreciate the thoughts. So far I've been looking  on Craigslist at Inner Sunset and Lake Merritt as jumping off points.  

SMJenkins3

June 19th, 2015 at 6:28 PM ^

Probably avoid Mission, Marina and North Beach.  All great neighborhoods but Mission is probably not safe enough for you and the other two are too expensive.

 

I would check out the pan handle (around Oak & Fell west of Divisadero), potrero hill, inner sunset (south of golden gate park out to about 20th ave) and Cole Valley (if you can find something in your price range)

 

 

trustBlue

June 19th, 2015 at 8:18 PM ^

I'm not from the area, but ive been living in Oakland for the past year. Too bad you just missed the Warriors parade.

Q: Are you bringing a car? 

Oakland near Lake Merrit is a decent area, walkable, close to the BART, decent coffee shops/restaurants, etc. and much warmer than SF.  You can walk to Downtown Oakland from Lake, but it it can be hard to get around the rest of Oakland if you don't have a car.

If you definitely ARE bringing a car, keep in mind that finding a place to park in SF will be an additional challenge. 

Tyrone Biggums

June 20th, 2015 at 10:33 AM ^

In the East Bay I think you'd be fine with anywhere west of 35 Avenue in Oakland. East of that is mostly residential, rent would be cheaper but a bit sketchy if you aren't familiar with the neighborhoods. I'd look in the Lake Merritt, Piedmont, Temescal, Rockridge and Emeryville areas. If you have a car and don't mind shared living I suppose you could look in the Montclair and Skyline areas, very few apartments but you'd wake up and go to bed with some great views of the city if you find a shared house or condo. The last time I moved back to the Bay I was living in NYC and apartment hunting from the east coast was a challenge. I bit the bullet and found a broker, paid $800 to find an apartment with my "criteria" and the broker did a great job. Some of the listings were craigslist but some I wouldn't have seen without his help. I saw 11 apartments in one day, which all had been scheduled, bam, bam, bam! Applied for my top three and ended getting my first choice. If you have the extra cash and want to find something you really like expeditiously I'd definitely suggest going this route. Cheers!

morepete

June 19th, 2015 at 6:07 PM ^

Sadly, reasonable doesn't really exist in SF anymore. You might be able to find a roommate situation at that price. In Oakland, look at Old Town, Uptown, and Temescal



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mgowake

June 19th, 2015 at 6:10 PM ^

Virtually impossible to live alone on that budget, even a studio. Craigslist will be your friend: many people look to rent out rooms in their house/apartment, etc. Be prepared to sign as soon as you see. Make sure you have your finances in line, etc. otherwise others will probably snag your dream shared apartment.

I hope you don't have pets either as that limits your options but is not impossible.


 

Zarniwoop

June 19th, 2015 at 6:10 PM ^

My condolences about your future savings account.

I got an offer out there for WAY more than I make in Orlando.

I was super excited. Then I started looking into where I might live with my wife and daugher plus four cats (apt not an option).  Ouch. Counter-offer denied.  Thanks anyways.

When I was single, I totally would have done it, so gratz. My parents lived there for the first 10 years of their marriage and still talk about how much they loved it (before it was 3 million per square inch).

Sopwith

June 19th, 2015 at 7:34 PM ^

The company I work for out here often acquires smaller companies, usually for the engineering talent. The problem we're running into more and more often is that if they're based somewhere where the cost of living is dramatically lower, there is no way the salary is going to compensate.

Orlando is a perfect example. We acquired a company in the Orlando area and a number of the engineers refused to come, because moving to Silicon Valley meant switching their 4-bedroom palace with a big yard for a 2-bed dilapidated shack. So we actually have people who fly here 2 weeks a month and work from a quiet Orlando office the other two weeks. Crazy, man.

People who want to know how this bubble deflates, that's probably it-- companies losing out on talent eventually say to hell with this, we're relocating somewhere we can attract top talent, and startups stop starting up here and go to the midwest, south, or pretty much anywhere else besides Honolulu or Manhattan.

bronxblue

June 19th, 2015 at 10:58 PM ^

It's funny - I've live long enough in NYC area to not be scared off by high prices in other places, but knowing friends and family who live in SF I'm still not sure I'd move there for a job.  People are shocked when they come to NY and wonder why a 1-bedroom in Manhattan runs you $2.5k, but at least there's a decent amlunt of real estate and enough inventory in the surrounding burroughs.  But in SF, it seems like it's basically Oakland and then hellacious commutes to bedroom communities.  

alum96

June 20th, 2015 at 12:31 AM ^

With the small footprint of SF, and the tons of Asian money - namely Chinese - I dont think that bubble really gets changed.  Like ever.  It's going to be like Manhattan in that foreign money is going to support it - doesnt mean prices wont ever go down for 2-3 years during a recession or whatever but you dont have normal markets in those areas.  Much like London and Paris, Manhattan and San Fran are now global cities and there are many buyers who are nearrly completely insensitive to prices.  For a rich Chinese person you take your money out of the country and park it in U.S. real estate and at least its a country with laws that won't be changing and potentially taking your money away at some point like could happen in China.  Same for Russians in London, and increasingly Manhattan, etc.

bronxblue

June 20th, 2015 at 1:36 PM ^

I do wonder if there will be a bit of a downturn if SF changes some of their zoning restrictions, such as the retention of single-occupany rooms in the middle of the city, and other limitations on growth.  Say what you will about Manhattan, but they aren't afraid of building bigger units at the expense of those who can't keep up.  SF, perhaps rightly, seems to be trying to keep at least a sheen of diversity to the city; NYC is mostly designed to let the most money into the middle and leave the outer burroughs/NJ for everyone else (despite the fact that Brooklyn, Queens, and even parts of the Bronx are getting pretty pricey).

Badkitty

June 20th, 2015 at 4:51 AM ^

I don't think you're analysis is completely right. There are still a lot of tech companies in Northern California and a lot of huge tech startups, ie, Facebook, Twitter, Uber, etc. You can say housing costs decide whether you can attract top talent but after all these years, Google or Apple or Facebook or Uber haven't moved their corporate headquarters to let's say, Alabama or Mississippi.



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Swazi

June 19th, 2015 at 6:11 PM ^

Go to Walnut Creek. It's east of Oakland, but has a BART station. Very nice town, lots of shops, a Target, and a shit ton of restaurants. Bike trail for exercising, etc.

And the rent there is much cheaper than SF, and the area is much safer than Oakland. I lived there til I moved to San Diego for a job.



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somewittyname

June 19th, 2015 at 8:15 PM ^

I have visited and it looks like the whole town was built 5 years ago. That may suit some but for me I felt it to be completely devoid of any sort of culture or unique aesthetic. Just a bunch of high end strip malls for white people to walk around with their thumbs up their chihuahua's asses.

SeattleWolverine

June 20th, 2015 at 12:22 AM ^

I hear ya. I lived out there in Walnut Creek and Pleasant Hill. It's generic bland white suburbia. But as with everything, tradeoffs. It's only 32 minutes to Embarcadero on the BART from Walnut Creek so maybe 15 minutes further than Oakland 19th street. Roughly. And you can also get a nicer larger apartment for cheaper than Oakland and way cheaper than SF. Maybe I had friends who lived in Lake Merritt or bought houses in various parts of Oakland but none of them wanted to leave their houses, especially after dark. I'd live in Berkeley before I'd live in Oaktown. In your price range. Either live somewhere cheaper, save up and compromise, or go for the real deal and get an apartment and a roommate in SF. Oakland is a poor compromise on value vs. cost. You'll probably just wind up BARTing it into SF most of the time anyway.

 

Iceman

June 19th, 2015 at 6:18 PM ^

It's not near-impossible to find something in that price range since you are open to location and roommates. If you want your own place, you can certainly find something in inner/outer sunset/richmond area. Studios will obviously be much easier to find for that price than 1 br. If you can find roommates on CL, you can definitely get something in a better location like pac heights, north beach, etc. I'm in Hayes Valley and found a nice 1br for $2400, so you just have to keep your eyes open on CL. If you are going to live in Oakland, then live near Lake Merritt. Berkeley is nice too, and has BART. You could also live in the peninsula, near a BART, and have a nicer place for that price. You really should figure out what you want from a location before looking, because you might get fooled if you are only looking at price and BART proximity

turtleboy

June 19th, 2015 at 6:19 PM ^

Say hi to uncle Jessie. A guy I know of relocated there for a new job, couldn't find a place, worked it out to sleep on someone's futon for $1,000 a month in the meantime. In the words of Han solo: good luck! You're gonna need it..

sfjb

June 19th, 2015 at 6:30 PM ^

You'll find something.  You could ask your new employer if they have any leads.  Consider this: your first place you won't live forever.  Use this as a gauge where you might want to live long term.

Check out craigslist; rents are out of control but you might be able to find existing roommates that have a better deal.  With roommates SF might be doable at that rate; consider areas such as outer sunset / outer richmond as well.  Not sure your commute needs.  If in the city, stick near BART lines and/or MUNI train lines (K/L/M/N/T).  Uber rules here -- out of the way neighborhoods are now accessible for nightlife.  BIG change from when i moved here.  Gives you more options.

Outside of SF stick close to BART.  Oakland is Oakland... but places like Walnut Creek, Pleasant Hill, etc are doable and the commute isn't crazy, especially if you work downtown.  Emeryville is a nice compromise - close to MacArthur Bart (as well as AC transit lines) and rents aren't insane.  Also Alameda can be interesting -- just figure out your commute and work backwards from there (AC Transit, Ferry, etc).  I've heard Daly City might be pretty affordable but don't know many people that live there.  Pacifica might work as well, but you'll be on suicide watch due to Fog.

Really craigslist or word of mouth is still the best way to nab an apartment out here.  Even try subletting for 6 months.  Just keep your belongings light until you get 'settled'.

patrick.nolan2012

June 19th, 2015 at 7:00 PM ^

Hey man, 

I'm also moving to SF at the end of the month and looking for a good spot to live. 

I think I'm going to sublet something in Oakland for a month to get acclimated so I don't have to rush into a decision. 

But if you're looking for a potential roommate I could be down. I also know a bunch of alums in the area, but they're all locked into good leases right now.

Best,

Patrick