OT: A few questions for Denver Area Residents

Submitted by WichitanWolverine on

I was hoping to just pick the brains of some of the Denver-based members because I'm thinking about relocating to the area. Skiing is a huge factor in this move. Any info you can give is appreciated.

-How feasible is it to drive from Denver (downtown or western suburbs) to the local ski resorts (A Basin, Breck, Winter Park, Vail) on a typical winter Saturday or Sunday? Is Google traffic remotely close or does it turn into gridlock more often than not?

-I haven't done much research yet but I'm wondering if I'd be restricted to the downtown area. Just curious if any of you are in the mechanical/aerospace engineering field by chance and know of jobs outside of downtown.

-How bike-friendly is Denver? Are there enough bike lanes to get around easily enough?

-How is Denver life in general (comparing to Ann Arbor)? How are the western suburbs (I hear Golden smells like a frat house 24/7)?

Thanks in advance.

Billy Ray Valentine

February 11th, 2015 at 7:40 PM ^

Quick thoughts.

 

This is a great region, all around.  Definitely growing.  Lots of job opportunities, especially for engineering.  There are several enginnering/aerospace hotbeads in the region, from Fort Collins in the north to Colorado Springs in the south.  I'd check out the Broomfield/Interlocken/Lousiville/Lafayette/Superior corridor.  Real estate in this area is still reasonable, and the schools are excellent (if you're thinking about settling down).  This area also has the benefit of being 20-25 minutes from both Dever and Boulder.  The south and west are older and more establised neighborhoods, thus, much higher real estate and rental prices.  Downtown is great if you're young and single, but be prepared to pay high rent.

 

Real estate is on fire throughout the state.  If you're going to buy, assume you will be paying above list price for anything remotely decent and well-located.

 

The other posters pretty much summed up skiing.  Do not plan on easy weekend trips.  Pure misery.  Not even worth it anymore, imho.  Get a job that gives you flexible hours and ski during the week.  

 

Skiing as a local is much different than skiing as tourist.  It's personal preference, but I do everything possible to avoid the Vail Resort mountains.  The prices are a joke, the lift lines are a mob scene, and when you live here, you don't like being surrounded by tourists.  To each their own, though.  If you're moving here for just skiing, which doesn't seem like the case based on your post, I think you're setting yourself up for disappointment.  Skiing/Riding is a bonus to an otherwise amazing region. 

 

Good luck.

 

 

ndscott50

February 11th, 2015 at 8:01 PM ^

Many locals don't care for vail resorts. This group tends to be big Copper fans but their are also winter park fans out there. For smaller resorts you have Eldora, Loveland and A basin near the front range. All can be fun but I always liked a-basin (good steeps)

Regarding Vail, Vail itself has the greatest amount and mix of terrain in the country in my opinion. Everyone who likes to ski should go there at some point. Only Jackson Hole can compete. I also like Breckenridge though a majority of locals would say I am nuts. Keystone sucks and close to 100% of locals will agree with that. Beaver Creek never thrilled me.

If you are going to go for a weekend steamboat and crested butte are great. I also love the Crested Butte area for camping in the summer (the upper poudre river across north park to Steamboat is also great for summer camping)

ndscott50

February 11th, 2015 at 11:06 PM ^

Moved to Breckenridge after I graduated from U of M. As a result my view of it is dated and clouded by nostalgia and the rather large amount of alcohol consumed. It was a great way to spend my 20's. The relative lack of women was the primary challenge. I would consider importing if you are making a similar move after college.

Billy Ray Valentine

February 11th, 2015 at 8:54 PM ^

In my opinion, of course. There are so many better deals to be had in the state that I do not have the patience to type a response listing them all. If I lived far away from Colorado, I would happily pay Vail resort prices. It would be a trip of a lifetime. But living here, there is just no way.

Billy Ray Valentine

February 12th, 2015 at 12:22 AM ^

I wished I lived in Vail or Summit County with my family, but that's not reality for us or most families I know.  Other than the single young adults without a professional job, the rare retiree, or the incredibly wealthy, the people I know range from never going to the mountains at all to skiing 7-10 days a year.  

 

For familes, the math gets ugly real quick.  $600 per Epic Pass per family member.  Over 2K for lift tickets for 10 days?!?  Then add in the traffic if we go on any weekend day.  Then add the absurd food prices.  Then add in that the food sucks.  Then add in the lodging if we stay over.  Ski lesson prices for kids?  $190/day.  

 

Don't get me wrong.  Vail, Beaver Creek, and A-Basin are brilliant places. Any day on any of those mountains are typically great days.  But there are many other options that work better for myself and most people I know.

 

Now that I know you live in Vail, I wish we were friends, though.  Go Blue!

Peter Nesbitt

February 11th, 2015 at 7:57 PM ^

I've been out here for a year and a half (University of Denver area, 15 minutes SE of downtown) since getting out of school in AA, so hopefully I can help!

- very feasible, especially if you leave early from Denver (before 7am) and leave earlier from the mountain. Traffic can get really bad due to construction in a new tunnel on 70. The further you go, the harder it is to get back. Also everyone here has a Subaru or SUV.

- Denver Tech Center will have a ton of jobs like that, I'm sure. 20 minutes SE of downtown. Also on the light rail line. Really easy to get around the whole metro area with public transit.

- the most friendly. Contrary to popular belief, Denver is actually really flat and driveable. There are SO MANY BIKERS, both commuting and sport.

- Similar vibe to AA (especially Boulder), but with a lot more diversity. Pretty segregated, but lots of culture. Everyone has a dog they got at a shelter. Everyone is fit. Western suburbs are great, but much more expensive, generally! Red Rocks is unreal.

RockyMtnWolverine

February 11th, 2015 at 8:03 PM ^

1. Driving from Denver to the mentioned ski resorts is feasible, but you will have to deal with traffic/weather going to or coming from the resorts depending on when you leave. On a typical Saturday, if you leave plenty early, you wont have to deal with much traffic. Leave between 7-9am, and its pretty bad. Same with going home. If you leave summit county around 4, its going to take you several hours of grid lock traffic. Like any other traffic situation, its all about timing and weather. That said, hundreds of people take day trips to the resorts from Denver and it doesnt seem to be that big of a problem.

2. You are not restricted to downtown. There are several engineering firms and a couple of prominent aerospace companies between littleton, boulder, and longmont.

3. Denver is pretty bike friendly. RTD could use some work though. The weather is generally pretty bike friendly. As another poster mentioned, we have some of the best (i could use more snow this winter, but thats me) weather in the country.

4. Denver is a growing, young metropolitan area. The western suburbs are nice. Don't move to Golden, it smells like Coors and its already getting too crowded. But I've lived there for a number of years and never thought it smelled like a frat house. This is the first time I've heard that description.

viciousid

February 11th, 2015 at 8:22 PM ^

But I will mention that I have been driving to the mountains most weekends for day trips to the slopes.  I go to keystone, and it takes about 1.5 hrs.  As mentioned above, most people get up very early to go to the slopes, whereas I tend to leave closer to 10am, so that could be the reason for my good luck.

I would highly recommend moving here due to the weather and job opportunities. 

I noticed that an above poster referred to the area as being highly diverse, and I strongly disagree with that assessment.  I'm not sure if that affects your decision, but Denver itself seems to be whiter and yuppier than most big cities. 

Another poster said "Another negative, I have found it difficult to connect with people out here" and I think that description is spot on.  If you go downtown on the weekends, you are likely to experience unsafe levels of douchiness.  The locals are great, but Denver is better than 70% transplants, so i feel confident blaming them. 

Also, outside of RedRocks, Denver pulls some phenomenal musical acts year round.  westword.com is a good resource for browsing events and getting an idea of what the city has to offer.

kgroff531

February 12th, 2015 at 11:31 AM ^

Been in SLC for over 2 years now. Love it. Have friends in DEN as well and wouldn't mind living there. If you like to ski, hard to argue with SLC's proximity to the resorts. I live downtown (sugarhouse area) and I can be on a lift within 30-40 mins door-to-door. Alcohol laws can be a pain, but you learn to deal. Really a non-issue for me now.

Blue in Denver

February 11th, 2015 at 8:38 PM ^

300 days of sunshine is the sort of thing you never knew you always wanted.  The only drawback is it will be impossible to move back to Michigan later.  Also the lack of humidity. You get spoiled very quickly.  You can't imagine how much you'll hate visiting Michigan any time other than the fall for Michigan games.

The traffic is worse than Ann Arbor but actually pretty good nationally (based on my experience, at least).  I've spent significant time in the last 10 years in Chicago, Austin, Dallas, Houston, and Cali bay area; and Denver traffic is infinitely better than any of them.  Tons of people in Denver complain bitterly about the traffic.  I laugh at them.

This is a decent size city, so it will feel different than A2.  Greater metro Denver is around 3M people.

Pro sports scene is excellent.  College sports scene is fairly anemic (with a few small exceptions like DU Hockey).

Little things are awesome.  Snow in Denver seldom lasts more than 2 or 3 days.  We might get a foot of snow but it's friggin' GONE almost overnight.  It never gets dirty.  You get pretty snow without ugly snow.

Lived in Michigan the first 26 years of my life.  Loved it there.  Planned to stay there.  Now I'll never go back.

mobablue

February 11th, 2015 at 8:41 PM ^

Quick hits from someone who just moved to Denver 6 months ago (my trajectory was Ann Arbor -> Atlanta -> Denver). This is mostly cold water since everyone loves Denver so damn much. I actually do too, but you won't have trouble finding positive information on Denver so:

  • Crazy seller's market in many areas right now. We pay 2k for a 1200 sqft nice apartment on the edge of a desirable area. We're looking for a house, and houses go above asking within a day or two of the first showings.
  • There are some cool neighborhoods (downtown, Wash Park, Platt Park are my favorites so far, surely there are more). There is also appaling suburban sprawl in every direction if that's your bag.
  • Others have mentioned the DTC - I work there. The train is great if you leave nearish and your office is nearish. Otherwise it's 30+ minutes for 10-12 miles for me (straight down 70 from south of down town). The area around the DTC is sprawl.
  • It's dry as fuck here. It's practically a desert. Bring your humidifiers. Other than that, the weather is great. Majority sunny and warm but with a little weather for variety (I didn't like California's numbingly constant weather).
  • The airport is far away, 40+ minute drive from downtown area. They're building a train from downtown - ETA 2016. 
  • Flights are often delayed due to changing weather, and there is often turbulence on the way in/out. Some heavy travel since moving here actually got me over my fear of turbulence real quick.
  • It can feel like you're living in an REI catalog.

Skiing!

  • You can drive to skiing... don't misconstrue that as living in a ski town.
  • The other commenters are right: leaving early means on the road before 6 am - traffic will already be heavy but moving. PJ's comment about leaving at 7 doesn't match my experience at all - the roads have been slammed well before then. I'm also leaving from the downtown area (Wash Park).
  • It'll take 2 hours. That's 4 hours in the car for there and back... if you can stay the night and ski twice in a row to cut off a few trips, do it.

DenverRob

February 11th, 2015 at 8:51 PM ^

Denver is great. I'm coming up in 8 years here.
Everyone pretty much covered your questions.
I will say anyone who thinks vail is the best resort is insane (expert skier opinion) It's $25 to park, the terrain is flat and always crowded.
The best skiing in the state is in the southwest at place like telluride or crested butte.
Come on down to lodo's at 20th and market for the football games.



Sent from MGoBlog HD for iPhone & iPad

ndscott50

February 11th, 2015 at 9:33 PM ^

There is a lot of great terrain at Vail that is fairly unique to the resort. The best terrain argument can go on forever and really comes down to preference. If you are young and single you can mitigate the cost issues with ride sharing and bringing your own food.

In terms of ski pass I would mix it up over the first few years. The epic pass will allow you to explore multiple resorts (even Keystone) over the course of a season. You really need multiple days at a place like Vail to get a good picture of what's there. You also increase the chance you can catch a great powder day in the back bowls. The next year get a copper and or winter park pass. You can try passes to some of the other smaller resorts in other years.

After a few years you will figure out which area you prefer and want to stick with for an annual pass. Don't skip out on weekend trips to places like wolf creek, monarch, and Telluride (it requires a long weekend). These resorts offer a very different experience then the I-70 mega resorts and allow you to see a different side of Colorado you miss along the front range and I-70

DM2009

February 11th, 2015 at 10:46 PM ^

Agreed with you on Vail. It has the most varied terrian of any resort in Colorado. You can spend a week there and not do the same trail twice. You can avoid the catwalks reasonably well if you know the mountain. I can understand some of the frustration with it because it caters to the elite, no doubt, but it is an outstanding resort. For what it's worth, it's not my favorite, but if I could only ski at Vail the rest of my life, I would be very happy.

NorthSideBlueFan

February 11th, 2015 at 10:02 PM ^

Seemingly her life's mission is to get our family out there like yesterday. I've lived in Chicago for 12 years now and was born and in the burbs of the D and don't ski, so I'm curious what there is for me out there as I come up on 40. I love Detroit sports, UM football and could really care less about mountains as I like water.

Are there any redeeming qualities of Denver for me out there other than weather? I haven't really found too much in my many visits...

ndscott50

February 11th, 2015 at 10:24 PM ^

Is the biggest negative for Colorado in my opinion. I do miss the lake scene in Michigan. There are reservoirs with boats but it is lame relative to Michigan.

All that being said I am also 40 with a young family and don't ski that often anymore. I prefer summer. I picked up fly fishing when I moved here and have spent a lot of time on the states rivers and lakes. It is a different experience then mid west lakes but still very cool
We bought a camper a few years ago and spend a week and several weekends in the summer at a couple different lakes in the mountains. We love it and it generally compensates for the lack of big multi-sport lakes.

Unsalted

February 12th, 2015 at 12:04 AM ^

So the water thing was big for me when I first moved here. Then winter came, and the sun was out. It was out again the next day, and the next day, and the next day.... I did not ski when I got here, but now I love it. Camping is great in the summer in the mountains, no humidity, no bugs.

I get my lake fix by renting a cottage for a week or two in the summer and hope the weather is good. I've been in Colorado since 1982 except for 6 years in Huntsville, AL. I love it here, my kids love it here. Great music, great sports, great food, great beer, great recreation.

I have lived in Colorado Springs, and Denver. CS has the advantage of taking the back way to the slopes, but Denver is overall much better in my opinion. I live in SE metro area for the schools. When I ski we get up early. When we hike 14er's we get up earlier.

I love it here!

RoxyMtnHiM

February 11th, 2015 at 10:13 PM ^

Weekend skiing is very feasible, Thousands and thousands of people do it. It's so feasible, eastbound I-70 from the tunnel to Morrison is the second or third largest city in Colorado on Sunday afternoons. I-70 can be a nightmare. CDOT has been trying to figure out what to do about it for as long as I've been here -- 20 years -- but it just keeps getting worse. I'll go Willow Pass/Cameron Pass/Rabbit Ears Pass to avoid it.

I drove through Golden twice today (to and from fishing on the South Platte, beautiful day on the river), no frat house smell. I lived just east of there, in Wheat Ridge, for a time. If you didn't know the Coors brewery was a brewery, you'd think it was an auto factory. Golden's a nice little place, but it's getting stomped fast.

Ball Aerospace, among others, has a strong and growing presence in the north Denver area, Westminster/Broomfield, as well as things going on around Boulder, given CU/LASP and etc.

The vacancy rate in Boulder County is approx 0%. Since the flood, we've rented a place and bought a place; it's a crazy market here right now. Bring cash.

drz1111

February 11th, 2015 at 10:29 PM ^

I was recently staffed in Denver for a few months.  I strongly disliked it.  So, let me provide a dissenting perspective, from someone who's spent most of their life on the East Coast.

 

(1) It's small and provincial.  If you like real culture and art, like you can find in the old cities in the upper midwest or East Coast, you're going to feel like you got sent to the moon. Crappy art, crappy "high" music, crappy theater.  There's some sweet pop music but, you know, that gets old real fast once you're in your late 20s.

(2) There's not a lot of real money in Denver - even compared to a Detroit or a Philadelphia, let alone a New York or Chicago.  There's very little poverty, but very little serious money, too. That ties into (1) above;  there are a ton of 20 and 30 somethings earning 50 grand a year and going to brewpubs, but not a lot of settled folks making 200k and eating good food and going out to high-end culture.  If you're in a Chicago or Boston etc., you can get the best of both worlds; a going-out culture when you're a single dude in your 20s and then a place to grow with once you have a wife, some more disposible income, etc.  I'm in my early 30s now and I can't imagine having to live in Denver, but it would've seemed AWESOME at 25.

(3) The [bleeping] traffic going out to the mountains, man.  Even the beach traffic on the East Coast on summer weekends isn't that bad.   Ironically, the commuting traffic is very light compared to East Coast cities.  But I-70 crushes your soul.

(4) The housing stock sucks unless you like cheaply built condos downtown or cheaply built sprawlly crap anywhere else.  Nothing like the older houses you can get in any Eastern or Midwestern city that were built when people still gave a shit.  I can't imagine sinking money into real estate that's a depreciating asset as soon as the bubble pops.

(5)  It's painfully homogenous.  White, yuppie, young.  Not that there's anything wrong with that (it describes me), but I like diversity in interests, ages, backgrounds among the people I live with.  Denver is like one of those quasi segregated suburbs that insulates you from anyone who might make you feel uncomfortable, but rendered in the form of an entire city.

(6) To be fair, the weather is amazing.

bluepow

February 12th, 2015 at 1:31 PM ^

If one is interested in being around wealthy cultured people, the Rockies will not be your cup of tea.  For me, it is all about the Rockies and not having wealthy cultured people elbowing in around me.

Athleticism is the binding trait of the Front Range.  I would not recommend moving here if you are unhealthy or inactive.