OT: Favorite Paris Cafes?

Submitted by MGrether on

Heading to Paris, France tomorrow. I know all the touristy stuff... but I love a good meal and great coffee. Any personal favorites out there? I have basically three days, where I will be in and out of meetings with some free time.

 

Thanks!

BOX House

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:03 PM ^

I've never been to Paris but Le Select is one of the places I've always wanted to visit. Hemingway used to drink there and a good portion of The Sun Also Rises is supposedly set there.

MattisonMan

July 23rd, 2013 at 9:30 PM ^

Don't underestimate the reach of this fanbase. Short answer is café Verlet.



I've lived in Paris for the last 2.5 years. Most cafés are pretty much the same so it depends what you want in terms of experience. If you just want to do something Parisian, any cafe is fine - just face outside and scowl at people.



If you want good coffee - a typical cafe is not where you want to be. Go to places like coutume, kookaburra, or caféotheque. Aforementioned Verlet is the only typical French cafe that has good coffee that I've found, and I knew some real coffee snobs.



If you're looking for food - my favorite meal in town is at l'avant comptoir (before the counter). It's standing-only French food tapas style. Cheap and incredible. Roast beef carpaccio with basalmic, olive oil, and Parmesan. Pork belly caramelized, etc.

Section 1

July 24th, 2013 at 11:16 AM ^

Harry's New York Bar.  Incomparable atmosphere.

LaCoupole.  Incomparable food and service.

Cafe de la Paix.  Incomparable streetscape.

I had the most fun just wandering late at night in Montparnasse and the 14th Arondissement.  Wherever there sounded like good music or crowds of good-looking people was usually pretty interesting.

But an MGoBlogger who has lived in Paris for 2.5 years is a pretty good source of advice...

MattisonMan

July 24th, 2013 at 11:57 AM ^

I second Harry's New York bar (don't know the others) but make sure you go to the basement. They invented several cocktails there and it's one of several thought to have been frequented by Hemmingway.



Cocktail bars are popular and there's lots. Another I recommend is candelaria, but Americans usually only want to go to a Mexican place if they've been out of the country for a long while.



Bonus that there's a Michigan pennant there (at Harry's). One of many, but it's there.

1989 UM GRAD

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:03 PM ^

Chinese restaurant named Dave. Walls festooned with Polaroids of Dave with every a-list celeb imaginable. Very popular with fashion and Hollywood types. But no one else really knows about it so not really touristy. More likely to see celebs if you go for a late dinner. Dave is a very flamboyantly gay Chinese man. And the food is actually good. A fun and off the beaten path spot.

medals

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:16 PM ^

Shouldn't be touristy.  Had a great, long, boozy lunch there a couple of years ago. 

Bistrot de la Grille St. Germain

14, Rue Mabillon

75006 Paris

Metro: Mabillon/ St. Germain-des-Pres

Tel.:  01-43-54-16-87

 

Canada loves S…

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:24 PM ^

8 yrs to be exact but wifey and I stayed in a hood called La Marais ( the swamp) it had every sort of fabulous bar and restaurant on every fresking block.



Having said that, if I was going back today, I'd be all over tripadvisor

imdeng

July 24th, 2013 at 9:33 AM ^

I second this. Berthillon is great. More than the ice cream though its just the general vibe of this area. Go there late at night, get a table outside and see the world pass by.

As far as cafes go, there are couple very popular ones on Blvd. St. Germain. There are some awesome street foods in the Blvd. St. Michel There are to two Moaz outlets in there with excellent Felafels - among the best vegetarian food your will find anywhere.

willow

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:41 PM ^

Find out which arrondisemont you're staying in and start looking in that general area.  I'd recommend a brasserie as the food is generally medium priced, unpretentious, lively ambiance and generally very good. The people watching is terrific.

I'd get a little book or list of menu names for different foods.  I try to avoid sweetbreads and organ meats.

The Guide Michelin is a great guide for many European regions.  I'd recommend checking out the Guide (pronounced GEED in French) app for smart phones.  It'll tell you the top things to do and how long each will take, it rates restaurants by stars (quite accurately) and has great maps.  

The red books are available in the travel section of any major bookseller.  As I recall there are two red books: one is restaurants and the other is tourist information for a given city or region. The colors may have changed.

A concierge can be helpful although if you're staying in an American hotel, you might get the touristy expensive place with mediocre food. 

Paris is a wonderful walking city and you'll miss a lot of sights and get to meet really rude drivers if you take a cab!  In at least 5 trips to France, the only rude people I met were cab drivers and I don't speak French.

The best way to approach anyone is to use whatever French words you may know to say, "Pardon, monsieur/madame, I have a problem."  You have just given them permission to try speaking English as well as they can and they love to help.  The French are reluctant to speak bad English and feel embarassed if they misspeak.  If you're both making fools out of yourself, it will be really enjoyable!

Bon Apetit!

 

TheGhostofChappuis

July 23rd, 2013 at 7:57 PM ^

Are you sure you don't want a caviar recommendation too?  Maybe a list of the finest champagnes?  How about the location of a local truffle vendor?

UM2k1

July 23rd, 2013 at 8:02 PM ^

12 years since I've been to Paris, but last time there, I are at one if the restaurants in the Eiffel Tower. The food was good, didn't seem too touristy, and the view was spectacular!

will

July 23rd, 2013 at 8:12 PM ^

My personal favorite is a small pseudo-touristy place called La Refufe Des Fondu. As the name implies, its a fondue joint. However, the kicked is that they server you wine from baby bottles. You'll leave in the best of spirits, and a memory that will last a lifetime.

https://maps.google.com/maps?expflags=enable_star_based_justifications:true&ie=UTF8&cid=6864385697548546525&q=Le+Refuge+des+Fondus&iwloc=A&gl=US&hl=en-US

The place is 2-3 blocks from Sacre couer. If you have some time in the area, I highly reccomend it!

anonbastardo

July 23rd, 2013 at 8:52 PM ^

(Which is just south of the Seine River from the Louvre & Notre Dame) Check out Le Comptoir, great food, though I still found it to be pricey for what we got (welcome to Paris in general).  I'd avoid the more famous Cafe de Flore & Les Duex Magots unless you are down paying €15 for single glass of brandi.  

https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Le+Comptoir+du+Relais&aq=&sll=48.851938,2.338693&sspn=0.008232,0.01929&vpsrc=6&gl=us&ie=UTF8&hq=Le+Comptoir+du+Relais&hnear=&ll=48.85256,2.338253&spn=0.004087,0.009645&t=m&z=17&iwloc=A&cid=1428069540531025966

The Latin Quarter is pretty cool and has cafes that are much friendlier on the wallet (numerous prefix menus for under €20).

https://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF-8&q=paris+latin+quarter&fb=1&gl=us&hq=latin+quarter&hnear=0x47e66e1f06e2b70f:0x40b82c3688c9460,Paris,+France&cid=0,0,10576968076829218649&ei=4xzvUZGrJcfxiwKUlwE&ved=0COUBEPwSMBI

We were generally happier when we stuck with the basics (croissants, baguettes, croque messiers, onion soup, crepes, steak frites).  Kinda like getting a good slice in New York or a good taco in L.A.

If you are drinking, most cafes and brasseries have crap beer selection.  Heineken, Leffe & 1664 are pretty much standard.  Stick with the house wine, it's cheaper and better.

If you are into farmer's markets, check out the St Germain covered market.  Awesome food to be had.

MGoGrendel

July 23rd, 2013 at 8:58 PM ^

on our honeymoon.  Still remember getting a simple ham/cheese/tomato sandwich on fresh baked bread from a street vendor - delicious.  We were right by the Arch with a street musician playing an accordion.  Felt ilke we were in a French movie.  Also remember drinking coffee at a cafe - we paid for each cup!  No bottomless refills; water was precious at the time.  Hope you enjoy your time there.

MAgoBLUE

July 23rd, 2013 at 9:31 PM ^

I went to Paris a few days after they won the '98 World Cup so I got to experience the French people in rare form, happy and accommodating to foreigners.  It's a great city.  I don't remember any cafes though.  I wasn't drinking coffee when I was 15.  I don't even drink that much now.  I guess I just wanted to say that I've been to Paris.  Also, this thread is what outsiders would use to make fun of MGoBlog.

gopoohgo

July 23rd, 2013 at 10:21 PM ^

It's the offseason.  We can't make 400 posts on Ohio players being arrested to entertain ourselves for another month, can we?  

Have not been to Paris as a working adult (and thus, ate at the cheapest places we could find) but will share this WSJ about how the neighborhood bistros have been using frozen meals from the French equivalent of Sysco.

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323398204578488990597549094.html

Would second the guy above who said buy a Michelin guide.  Also would recommend finding Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations: Paris episode with Eric Ripert (owner of Le Bernadin in NYC and used to be part of WestEnd Bistro in DC).

Part of the fun is to throw out the guides, tho, and just wander around.  I tend to overplan vacations, so I will make ONE fancy-shmancy dinner reservation per city and the rest of the time we will wander about and try to explore.  Helps if you know the language, though :)

FLwolvfan22

July 23rd, 2013 at 9:38 PM ^

Paris is a zoo but I suppose it's okay to experience it once now before it becomes non existant in a few years. I usually di a Bastille cafe for breakfast (croc madame et chocolat chaud) and cafe outside the Pompidou center for afternoon drinks, Montmarte is okay but all tourists, not much local people watching. If you want great food it doesn't exist in Paris and especially not in Aout when everyone goes on vacation for a month. don't want to be debbie downer here but Paris is hot and misreable in late July, early August.

French West Indian

July 24th, 2013 at 1:55 PM ^

The timing of a visit in late July/August isn't really the best because many local people are out of town on their own holidays.  And with so many tourists in town (many of them English speaking) you might find yourself wondering where are all the French people.

Sorry I don't have any good coffee house recomendations to share.  As some of the others have noted, Paris is not really a die hard coffee town so probably whatever is most local to your accomodations will be fine.

notYOURmom

July 23rd, 2013 at 9:44 PM ^

As opposed to a cafe town. However if you are looking for genuinely good coffee a good compromise (plus a few minutes free wi if) can be found at Cafe Malongo, 50 Rue St Andre Des Arts in the 6th between Olace St Michel and St Germaine des Pres. Nice walking neighborhood too

Mister X

July 23rd, 2013 at 10:42 PM ^

As you can tell from my profile I rarely post even though I'm on this site several times a day even in the off-season.  But I live in Paris now and have for the past 1 1/2 years, just next to the Crazy Horse near the Place d"Alma in the 8th arrondissement, so this is a rare occasion where I feel I can actually add something of value to the conversation.

And that is... it's all good.  Not knowing where you'll be you should just walk around a bit and drop into a cafe or brassarie that looks good.  The thing about these places is that they all have very similar menus (i.e. most brassaries serve the same ~7 main dishes, and if they didn't they'd be restaurants and not brassaries).  Location, convenience and atmosphere should be the determining factors.  If you're looking for a nice restaurant, or want a modern/asian/Brittany/olde tyme/etc. flavor on a traditional brassarie or cafe because you've lived in Paris for 1 1/2 years and are bored then that's a different and longer story.  But if you're there for three days in and out of meetings then the important thing is just that you go to one that looks good and enjoy the food and experience.

That said, I can agree with most of the above.  Deux Magots is definitely touristy, but is traditional (waiters wear black and white), not more exensive than any cafe in a nice part of Paris and it's on a nice square with good people watching.  Some friends south of us rave about Cafe du Metro, but only becaue that place is like Cheers to them.  Since you'll probably be near the Eiffel Tower at some point, the Cafe de la Tour just east of the tower is nice.  Closer to my apartment is Chez Francis, which is a cafe/restaurant.  Too pricey for dinner, and the service is awful since it caters to the tourists coming off of the Bateau Mouches river cruises, but the view of the Eiffel Tower from there is fantastic (and if you didn't already know the tower sparkles for 5 mins at the top of each hour after dark until 1AM).  The cafe gourmand there is 9 Euros and gets you a shot of expresso an three mini-desserts so if you're in the area you could do worse.

Also, understand that waiting tables in France is a profession, not a part-time job like in the states.  The waiters are there to engage as equals, not to be your friend.  This comes across as rude to Americans (and there are some truly rude waiters) but understand it for what it is.  Also, it's considered rude for the waiter to hand you your bill (the implication is that they are rushing you out of their cafe to turn tables more quickly) so understand that you will have to ask for your bill - your waiter is not just ignoring you.

Final point on the coffee.  Back in the day when Ann Arbor was the only city in the state where you could get espresso, French coffee seemed like the best thing on earth to me.  Now that Starbucks are everywhere in the states and I've gotten used to how I like my espresso, I find the French espessso to be a bit lighter and slightly more sour than I'd prefer.  It's still good, but don't expect it to knock your socks offl

Hope you enjoy your time in Paris.  I love the city and even its inhabitants.  And for Pete's sake when you're there as an Ameican please dress well, learn hello/goodbye/please/thankyou and understand it's polite to say bonjour whenever you enter someplace and au revoir when you leave.  Hope you have a good experience.

 

/tl;dr'd

snarling wolverine

July 23rd, 2013 at 11:09 PM ^

I spent a year in France and definitely agree with all this.  That last paragraph can't be stressed enough.  If you follow the basic social cues (give greetings when you come/go, don't raise your voice in public - basically, don't be an asshole), and make even the tiniest effort to initiate a conversation in French, even if it's just "Excusez-moi monsieur/madame, parlez-vous anglais?" - the vast majority of people will be friendly to you (and they'll very frequently switch to speaking English to help you out).

When I was in France, in the tourist areas, I saw way too many "ugly Americans" who made zero effort to blend in, were loud, and complained all the time.  I'm sure they annoyed a lot of locals; they annoyed me as a fellow American.  

MGrether

July 24th, 2013 at 8:31 AM ^

Since you live in Paris, a follow up question: My sister wants me to find a French Rolling Pin (used for nutmeg)... Kind of a long story about Grandma's famous nutmeg made with her French Rolling Pin that she got in Paris that is being willed to another family member who doesn't cook... Anyway. A place in Paris that sells quality culinary products would be appreciated, if you know of one.

Der Alte

July 24th, 2013 at 9:12 AM ^

Was in Paris for several days in May. We stayed in a great little hotel near Place d'Odeon, in the 5th arrondissement, not far from the Pantheon and from Hemingway's first Paris residence (if you're at all interested).

Marco Polo serves great food at competitive (not cheap) prices. But you can order just le plat without the entre that comes with the prix fixe plat du jour. Remember in France the entre is just that --- a first course or appetizer; le plat is the main course. 

Marco Polo's clientele is a good mix of locals and les touristes. The surrounding area is also a "happening place" with a number of good bars and restaurants filled with young crowds (as I observed from a distance).  tour 

GoWings2008

July 24th, 2013 at 10:11 AM ^

Not so much a cafe' and I've only been to Paris once, but there was a cool place to eat near, and please forgive me, Notre Dame (pronounced with the French accent).  The direct translation for the place is called "The Inn of the Recruiting Sergeant."  It got the reputation "back in the day" as a place where recruiting sergeants would wine and dine young men and talk them into enlisting in the French Army.  Convincing them that good food and good drink was what the army was like, they signed on the dotted line and woke up to a nightmare the next day. 

They serve most items 'family style' with long tables passing dishes and sides up and down the table.  The house wine was awesome, as I recall.  When you walk in, they open a bottle for you as you're waiting for your table.  Neat place.